Six Reasons to Visit Asturias
This year, I spent my first Christmas (ever) without any of my family. Weeks ago, that reality hit me and I had an emotional breakdown. Dig if you will the picture . . . me, knee-deep in red wine from the teacher's Christmas lunch, and ugly crying like a toddler. Very Bridget Jones singing "All by Myself." Thankfully, the best roommate this side of the Atlantic was there to give me a hug and hear me out. But more importantly, she invited me to spend Christmas in Asturias with her and her family. I gladly accepted the invitation but had no idea the green of Asturias would chase my Christmas blues away.
During my one-week stay, I experienced some of the best Spain has to offer. However, Asturias is often overlooked when planning a trip to Spain. Instead, thousands of tourists flock to more well-known regions like Catalonia (i.e. Barcelona), Andalucia (i.e. Seville and Granada), Valencia, and Madrid every year. But the beauty of Asturias rivals them all.
Located in the northwest of Spain between Galicia to the west and Cantabria to the east, Asturias is lush with green due to the high annual rainfall and home to a variety of geography. Thus, it has more than earned the title of “Natural Paradise of Spain.” There are dozens of reasons why this Spanish emerald should be on your travel list, but I have narrowed it down to six main reasons. Hopefully, these reasons will motivate you to seek a different experience in Spain and visit Asturias.
Six Reasons to Visit Asturias
1. The History
Asturias is a history nerd’s dream. Whether you’re into archaeology, prehistoric art, medieval history, architecture, or the history of Christianity, Asturias has it all.
The presence of humans in Asturias dates back over 33,000 years ago to the early Paleolithic period, the earliest period of human development. You can find evidence of this presence in cave art found throughout the region. Original paintings can be seen in Tito Bustillo, El Buxu, and El Pindal.
Fast-forwarding to a more modern time, the path to Spain as we know it today begins in Asturias. Most of the Iberian Peninsula was occupied by the Moors for nearly 800 years (from 711 until 1492), but not Asturias. Don Pelayo, elected king of Asturias in 718, secured independence and maintained control of the region when he defeated the Moors during the Battle of Covadonga. The unlikely victory was due to the mountainous terrain which gave Pelayo and his forces a significant advantage. Many historians recognize this victory as the start of the Reconquista (the Christian re-conquest of the peninsula from the Muslim Moors). A statue of Pelayo can be found next to the Basilica of Covadonga.
The Battle of Covadonga not only secured a Christian foothold in the Iberian Peninsula but also birthed the legend of the Victory Cross, one of Asturia’s most recognized and revered symbols. According to the legend, the wooden core of the Victory Cross, now covered in gold and gems, was carried by Don Pelayo during battle. The Victory Cross can be seen today at the Cathedral Basilica of the Holy Savior in Oviedo, which is the capital of Asturias. The Oviedo Cathedral is also known as Sancta Oventensis because of the relics that can be found there. Among those relics is the Shroud of Oviedo. The shroud is believed to be a cloth wrapped around the head of Jesus after his death.
2. The Traditions
My favorite memories in Asturias were made while sitting around the kitchen table with Rocío (aka the best roommate this side of the Atlantic) and her parents talking about Asturian traditions. I learned so much! For starters, I had no clue that Asturians spoke their own language. Although it’s not an official language of Spain, Asturian has its own grammar, dictionary, and conventions for writing. And it can be taught as an elective language in schools.
Asturias also has its own Santa Claus named Anguileru. Anguileru is an eel fisherman who arrives from the sea to deliver presents on Christmas Eve. He is often depicted with a large beard, wearing a yellow rain coat, rubber pants, and a beanie while carrying a fishing net. Basically, he’s the guy on the Gorton’s Seafood packaging. Another Christmas tradition is the Epiphany or Fiesta de Los Tres Reyes Magos. The Epiphany is observed by many Christians, not just in Asturias, and celebrates when the three wise men brought gifts to the baby Jesus. People tend to exchange small gifts on Christmas Day, but the biggest gifts are opened on the Epiphany, twelve days after Christmas. The Epiphany is always on January 6th and is considered a bank holiday in Spain.
Another Asturian tradition is visiting Our Lady of Covadonga, a title of the Blessed Virgin Mary, in her Holy Cave. The cave is in the Picos de Europa mountains across from the Basilica of Covadonga. Under the cave is a grotto complete with a waterfall that falls into a small lake. The cave holds a shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary and the tomb of Pelayo. Pelayo credited a miraculous intervention from the Virgin Mary for his victory at the Battle of Covadonga.
While visiting the cave, you can light a candle for prayer intentions and pay your respects to the Virgin Mary. But you can also toss a coin into the lake. This is an Asturian rite of passage. While facing the shrine, you make a wish, then toss a coin over your shoulder into the lake behind and hundreds of feet below you. If your coin makes it into the lake, then your wish will be granted. Another tradition attached to this natural wonder involves a seven-spout fountain located next to the lake. It is said that if you drink from all seven spouts, you will be married within one year. Naturally, I wouldn’t even walk near the damn thing, nonetheless, drink from it!
3. The Cider
It is common knowledge that Spain produces amazing wine and Rioja is a well-known wine region. But in Asturias, grapes do not grow well due to the constant rainfall. However, apples do and are plentiful in the region. Consequently, there are few things more Asturian than sidra (hard apple cider). In Asturias, there are over 2,000 types of apples, but only 22 are appropriate for making cider. And the beverage produced ain’t your overly sweet Angry Orchard. The sidra is light, slightly musty and tart, with a hint of sweetness. Often enjoyed in the summer, sidra is served cold and with a lot of flair. The preferred natural sidra does not have any carbonation. But of course, who doesn't like a little carbonation with their inebriation? So the bartender holds a large, thin glass in one hand and a bottle of sidra in the other. Then the bottle is raised above the bartender’s head and the sidra is poured into the glass waiting below producing foam. This method of pouring is called escanciar and was unlike anything I’d ever seen before. After the sidra is poured, you must drink it immediately and in one shot.
4. The Food
The food in Asturias is like receiving a hug from your abuelita who is always trying to fatten you up like a bear preparing for hibernation. There is nothing light about Asturian cuisine. But the cuisine is heavy because it always had to be. First, Asturias is a colder region, especially in the mountains. Second, farming, herding, and fishing were the backbone of the economy for centuries. Then it was the mining industry. These occupations require many hours of hard labor and the workers need food that can sustain them all day. And Asturian food will do just that.
The two most well-known dishes are fabada and cachopo. Fabada is a stew made with locally grown fava beans, chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage), and pancetta. The simple ingredients are stewed together for hours and produce an ultra-satisfying bowl of sustenance and comfort.
Cachopo consists of ham and cheese layered between two beef cutlets. The layers are then dipped in egg, battered in flour or breadcrumbs, and deep fried. The outcome looks very similar to a schnitzel. Cachopo is often served with a roasted red pepper and fried potatoes. Full disclosure: cachopo was not my cup of tea, but I understand the carnivorous appeal.
The savory dishes of Asturias are amazing but you can’t forget the sweet. My favorite desserts were casadielles and moscovitas. Casadielles are a rolled pastry filled with a combination of walnuts, sugar, butter, and anise-flavored liqueur. Traditionally, the pastries are fried because many Spanish homes (even today) do not have an oven. Personally, I preferred the baked version of the dessert and even brought some back to Madrid with me.
Moscovitas are almond and toffee cookies pressed very thin then dipped in chocolate. The cookies originated in a small bakery called Confitería Rialto in Oviedo. Lucky for those of us in Madrid, the bakery has opened a second location at Calle de Núñez de Balboa.
An honorable mention goes to rice pudding, which is also a popular dessert in Asturias. To make things interesting though, the top of the rice pudding usually has a layer of caramelized sugar on top. A nod to its French neighbors to the northeast.
5. The Fishing Villages
Asturias has more than 240 miles of coastline from the Cantabrian Sea which borders the north of the region. The coastline offers many scenic views and geographical intrigues such as cliffs, capes, islands, and fishing villages. In total, there are 18 fishing villages in Asturias, and I had the pleasure of visiting one of them. Lastres is a fishing harbor located in eastern Asturias and its beauty left me speechless (a rare occurrence). The houses just seemed to climb out the cliffs and hang there in defiance against the power of the sea. Unfortunately, I visited on a rainy day so I didn't do much exploring through the narrow, winding streets. But I was able to see multiple views of the village, visit the harbor, and witness a nearly full rainbow. And of course, what's a visit to a fishing village without seafood? The Asturian bass I had for lunch was freshly caught and cooked to perfection with butter and garlic.
6. The Mountains
Mountains cover nearly 80% of Asturias. Towering over the lush green hills, you will find snowcapped mountain peaks that would give Switzerland a run for its money. I am assured by Rocío’s father that the hiking is some of the best in Spain. But I cannot confirm because my left knee’s “check engine” light magically came on when I turned 30. Instead, I just marveled at the ever-present mountains. However, if you’re into such outdoorsy activities, be sure to check out the hiking routes or brave the Nature Trail of the Cantabrian Mountains.