Celebrating the New Year in Lisbon
There are many traditions celebrated around the world to bring in the New Year. Whether you’re wishing for love, luck, health, or wealth, there’s a tradition that promises your wish will come true. In Spain, the New Year is celebrated by eating 12 grapes. After the clock strikes midnight in Madrid’s Puerto del Sol, there are a series of twelve chimes, one for each month. The chimes are only three seconds apart and you eat one grape per chime. Finishing your grapes before the final chime is believed to guarantee luck all year. Which you’ve earned, quite frankly, because you just cheated death by devouring twelve small choking hazards in a little over 30 seconds!
Growing up, I always celebrated one, very Southern, tradition. Eating black-eye peas and collard greens on New Year’s Day. The black-eyed peas are associated with good luck, while the greens are associated with financial prosperity. An iconic duo.
But as an adult, I have created my own New Year’s tradition. One that feeds my wanderlust and sense of adventure. Every year, I have decided to bring in the New Year in a new country. Last year, I celebrated in London, England. I was invited by two complete strangers (who quickly became friends) I met at a pub to celebrate New Year’s Eve with them, their friends, and family. But we celebrated the New Year twice. Once, when the clock struck midnight in Spain, complete with 12 grapes. And again, when the clock struck midnight in the United Kingdom, which is one hour behind. Turns out two of the party guests, including one of my new friends, were originally from Spain. Nine months later, I moved to Madrid. Maybe the grapes work after all?
This year, I kissed 2019 goodbye and welcomed 2020 in Lisbon, Portugal. Known as the “City of Seven Hills,” Lisbon is Portugal’s capital and the second oldest city in the world. And of course, the history is fascinating.
The region was originally settled by the Celts but was eventually conquered by the Romans, Germanic tribes, and the Moors. It wasn’t until the 12th century that Portugal received its first king, Afonso I, after he revolted against and defeated his own mother. During the reign of Afonso III, Lisbon became key to Portugal’s maritime expansion and eventually Portugal’s capital was moved from Coimbra to Lisbon. Lisbon flourished and from the 15th century onwards, Lisbon’s port became one of the most important in the world.
However, disaster struck in 1755. On November 1, 1755 (All Saints’ Day), one of Europe’s most powerful earthquakes hit Lisbon. The earthquake lasted nearly 10 minutes and scientists have estimated that the magnitude was between 8.5 and 9.0. At the time, Lisbon’s churches and cathedrals were packed with devout citizens celebrating the important Christian feast day. The structures were not made to withstand the earthquakes and many worshippers died as the religious buildings collapsed. As part of the religious celebrations, nearly every candle available was lit and the churches were decorated in an inordinate number of flammable items. As the tremors struck the city, it knocked over these candles and into the flammable flowers and decorations. As a result, fires ravaged Lisbon for five days after the earthquake.
But the devastation didn’t end there. Seeking safety from the fire and falling debris, many survivors sought refuge on the docks. The earthquake caused the Tagus River to recede and exposed lost cargo and shipwrecks. Tempted by the promise of treasures, many people ran into the empty sea to claim their bounty. Unbeknownst to them, the earthquake would cause a tsunami about 40 minutes later. And two additional tsunamis struck Lisbon in the following hours. Consequently, thousands who escaped the destruction of the earthquake were drowned and dragged out to the Atlantic Ocean by the tsunamis.
Nearly 85-90% of the buildings in Lisbon were destroyed and an estimated 30,000-40,000 people were killed. Alfama was the neighborhood least impacted because it was built high enough to avoid the tsunami and on a large rock that could withstand the earthquake. Most of Alfama’s population was poor. And ironically, the neighborhood was also well-known for its sex workers. So, while the “saints” perished below, the “sinners” survived above. Overall, the devastation and circumstances led many Portuguese to question their religious beliefs. But just over a month later, plans were in place to rebuild Lisbon as it stands now.
Today, Lisbon has solidified itself as a destination for music, art, architecture, and culinary experiences. However, Portugal was in a financial crisis most of the past decade, which led to bankruptcy and an international bailout. But the economy has been showing signs of growth since 2017. Luckily for tourists, visiting Lisbon is still extremely affordable compared to other European capitals. For example, a 20-minute taxi ride will cost you about 4€.
I could have spent weeks in Lisbon so the four days I was there were not nearly enough. But despite my short visit, I saw and did a lot. Here are the FIVE THINGS I enjoyed the most in Lisbon and think they are must do activities for any first-time visitor.
1. Get out and explore.
I believe the best way to experience a new place is on foot. And Lisbon is no different. Getting out and getting lost can be fun because you never know what you will find. But another great starting point is to take a free walking tour, which I did on New Year’s Eve. Free walking tours allow the tourist to pay the tour guide what they believe the tour was worth. In general, I think 5€ per 1-1.5 hours is a fair tip, if the tour guide is good. Tours typically last between one and three hours and are available in your preferred language.
There are many benefits to a walking tour. You receive advice and recommendations from a local, learn about the city’s history, orient yourself with the city’s layout, visit important sites, and meet fellow travelers. Our tour guide was lovely and very generous with tips to make the most out of my time in Lisbon. The best tip I received was about one of the best scenic views in Lisbon from the Elevador de Santa Justa. Typically, riding the elevator to its scenic viewing platform is 5€ and you can expect a line that wraps around the corner. But you can keep your coins and avoid any lines by going through the back entrance. Walking from the ruins of the Carmo Convent, you will see a set of stairs next to the restaurant, Bellalisa Elevador. This will take you directly to a bridge that connects to the viewing deck.
2. Drink Portuguese wine.
Portugal is famous for its port wine. Beloved by Anthony Bourdain (patron saint of Vino & Vibes) and many around the world, port is a fortified wine produced exclusively with grapes from the Douro Valley in northern Portugal. Unfortunately, I do not like port wine. Like really don’t like it. But several people told me I had to try “green wine.” Vinho verde or green wine is a crisp, aromatic, slightly sparkling, and low alcohol wine also from northern Portugal. However, green wine is not actually green. The name simply means the wine is young and released three to six months after the grapes were harvested. Typically, green wine is white wine but can also be found as red or rosé wines.
3. Eat pastéis de nata.
Pastéis de nata or pastel de nata is a Portuguese custard tart. The main ingredient is egg yolks and the rich egg custard is nestled in a crispy, flaky pastry. The pastries were created by Catholic monks in the parish of Saint Mary of Bethlehem who used egg whites to starch clothes but had egg yolks leftover. You can find these tasty treats in just about every bakery in Lisbon but the original can be found at Pastéis de Belém. Only three people know Pastéis de Belém’s “secret recipe.” And they’re not allowed to travel together, in case disaster strikes, just like the British royal family. The pastries are best served hot with a sprinkle of cinnamon. And they’re great with coffee!
4. Ride the tram.
As the “City of Seven Hills,” Lisbon needs a transportation system that can accommodate those hills and the narrow streets. And what better way than a tram. Originally entering service in 1873, Lisbon’s historical tram system is one of the largest in Europe. There are six different routes running yellow trams consistently. The historic #28 tram between Martin Moniz and Campo do Orique is the most popular and you can find souvenirs around the city with images of the tram. You can buy a ticket for 3€ onboard and hop off whenever you’re ready. And trust me, after all the walking you’ll do, the tram will be a welcome break.
5. Enjoy the nightlife.
Nightlife in Lisbon is exciting and dynamic. You can find everything from traditional fado bars to reggae clubs. And much like Madrid, Lisbon’s nightlife runs late. Most people don’t venture out until after midnight and the party doesn’t end until the sun rises. There are two areas famous for nightlife, Pink Street and Bairro Alto.
Pink Street is literally a paved street painted bright pink. Located in Cais do Sodre, the actual name of the street is Rua Nova do Carvalho. One of the most well-known bars on Pink Street is Pensão Amor. Formerly a brothel, Pensão Amor is an eclectic lounge bar with rooms that include an old school disco. It also has an erotic library.
Bairro Alto is centrally located in Lisbon and just a few minutes walking from the Chiado neighborhood. During the day, Bairro Altois basically a ghost town. Not much is going on until after 11:00 pm when the street seems to come alive. Technically, the bars are supposed to close at 2:00 am, per an agreement with the residents, but the bars only look closed from the outside. The party continues inside until at least 4:00 am.